Yarn for this project was kindly donated by: Spirit Work,
Dress it up, or dress it down! The Picovoli t-shirt pattern lets you choose whether delicate picots surround the neckline, armholes, and/or hem, or whether the lines remain unadorned and straight. Flattering and feminine design details – ballet neckline, full-fashioned shaping, and close-fitting style – are achieved simply: the t-shirt is knit in the round, from the top down, and in one piece, so there’s no seaming. For knitters who choose straight edges, finishing is limited to weaving in ends from joining skeins. The versatile Picovoli can be your top for your next occasion, casual or dressy!
Debbie Bliss Cathay, 50% cotton, 35% viscose microfibre, 15% silk, 109 yds / 100 m per 50 g skein, color #8: 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 8) skeins
Circular needles: US 4 / 3.50 mm or size needed to obtain gauge; 16" / 40cm or 20" / 50cm (for the first few rounds) and 24"/ 60cm or 29" / 80cm (for the rest of the sweater).
Markers of two different colors/styles
Note: This pattern is for a close-fitting garment – about 2 inches smaller around the bust than the wearer’s actual bust measurement. The negative ease produces a streamlined silhouette while compensating for cotton’s tendency to stretch during wear. In order to assess whether this fit will work for you, select a sweater knit from a similar fabric, one which fits you the same way you’d like your Picovoli t-shirt to fit you. Measure the sweater, and compare its dimensions to the finished dimensions of the Picovoli.
Note: The top is knit in the round – if you know that your gauge varies drastically between knitting flat and knitting in the round, take the time to make a circular knitting swatch. Cotton and cotton blends, which are a good choice for this top, tend to stretch or bloom when wetted. Therefore, measure gauge after washing and/or blocking your swatch.
Before you begin: Since the t-shirt is knit from the top down, you can try it on as you go. Place the stitches on a spare length of yarn, or shuttle some of them to a second circular needle, then try on your project-in-progress. Be sure to try it on after completing a few rows of the bust section (check that the neckhole and armholes fit), towards the end of the bust section (there should be enough fabric to cover your bust), and throughout the waist-shaping portion (garment should follow your natural curves). Women with fuller busts may want to consider adding short-row shaping in the bust section.
Note: If you leave a long tail of pattern yarn when casting on, you can use it to stitch down the picot neck edging.
Place markers for the raglan seams as follows: k 19 (21, 21, 21, 21, 22), pm, k 22 (26, 28, 28, 30, 30), pm, k 38 (42, 42, 42, 42, 44), pm, k 22 (26, 28, 28, 30, 30), pm, k 19 (21, 21, 21, 21, 22). Increase round: *knit to 1 st before marker, k-f/b, sm, k-f/b; rep from * at each marker, knit to end of round; 8 sts increased (1 st each side of each raglan seam); 128, (144, 148, 148, 152, 156) sts on needle.
Continue making increase rounds according to finished bust size:
28" / 71cm (32" / 81cm): work increase round every other round, 10 (12) more times, ending with an even round; 208 (240) sts – 60 (68) sts for front and back, 44 (52) sts for sleeves.
/ 91cm (40" / 101.5cm, 44" / 112cm, 48" / 122cm): *work
1 round even, work 2 inc rounds; rep from * 8 (10, 11, 13) times.
36" / 91cm and 44" / 112cm sizes only: work 1 round even,
then 1 additional increase round. All sizes: work 1 round even; 284
(308, 336, 364) sts on needle – 78 (84, 90, 98) sts for front
and back, 64 (70, 78, 84) sts for sleeves.
Note: When forming the armholes by casting on mid-row, you may want to cast on fairly tightly and/or use a smaller needle; the knitted cast-on in purl forms a nice, snug edge. Be aware that the first and last cast-on stitches tend to be loose. To remedy this, pick up an extra stitch at each edge of the knit fabric, then k2tog the extra stitch with the first and last cast-on stitches, respectively.
K 38 (44, 50, 55, 60, 66), place contrasting marker. This marks the beginning of the round from now on (at your right side). Knit even for 4 (4.5, 4.75, 5.25, 6.25, 7)" / 10 (11.5, 12, 13.5, 16, 18) cm, approx. 30 (34, 36, 39, 47, 52) rounds, or length required to nearly cover bust while stretching lightly.
While shaping, you will leave 34 (38, 44, 52, 60, 70) sts untouched at each side, and decrease/increase the number of stitches in the front and back sections.
Decrease round: k to first marker, *sm, SSK, knit to within 2 sts of next marker, k2tog, sm*, k to next marker, repeat between *s, k to end of round; 150 (172, 194, 216, 238, 260) sts. Repeat decrease round every 3rd (3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 2nd, 2nd) round 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) times more; 122 (144, 162, 184, 202, 224) sts. Knit even for 2" / 5 cm (approx. 15 rounds).
Increase round: k to first marker, *sm, m1(right), knit to next marker, m1(left), sm*, k to next marker, repeat between *s, k to end of round; 126 (148, 166, 188, 206, 228) sts. Repeat increase round every 3rd round 6 times more; 150 (172, 190, 212, 230, 252) sts. Knit even for 1.5" / 4cm (approx. 11 rounds).
Choose whether you would like picot edging
at the hem.
Note: For a straight hem, you may want to cast off using a needle one size larger than what you used for the rest of the pattern. This will ensure that the cast-off edge is not too tight, and the t-shirt won’t ride up over your hips. If you are adding picot edging at the hem, leave a long tail after you’re done knitting, and use it to secure the picots.
For picot armholes: with RS facing, replace 44 (52, 64, 70, 78, 84) held sts on needle. Join yarn, *k2tog, yo; repeat from *, end with k2tog; 43 (51, 63, 69, 77, 83) sts. Turn work. Work 2 rows in st st. Fold edge along picot row and sew live stitches in place. Repeat for other armhole.
For picot neckline: fold edge along picot row, remove provisional cast on and sew live stitches in place.
For picot hem: fold edge along picot row and sew live stitches in place.
Weave in all ends.
Note: You may want to separate the plies of your pattern yarn and use only some of them to secure the picot edging without adding extra bulk. If you’ve added picots around the armholes, the yarn tails can be used to stitch down the picots and/or neaten up the corners of the armhole. The picot hem is sewn into place and is therefore not very elastic; since it needs to slide over your bust, do not make it too tight, and/or try on your garment before deciding where to secure the ends.
Individual Pattern Copyright remains with the designer. See our Legal page for more information.
Web Design by Kerrie Allman
Logo Design by Amy Fong.